Clan MacFarlane Worldwide, Inc.

Kilts and Cowboy Boots

Gathering of the Clans 

Can you hear it?  The battle cry of your clansmen? The call for help defending their honor? The weeping? Can you hear the Call?

If you attend the San Antonio Highland Games in April 2020, you will hear the Call! There will be a historic battle to the last tartan pleat. Clans Colquhoun, MacFarlane, MacGregor, and Scott will be combatants against each other. Professional athletes will retire while Clan teams battle for bragging rights on the field in tug-of-war, backward sheaf toss, rustling of the “coos” competitions.  Come and support your Clan claim the championship maug. Click to register (opens October 14th)

EVENT HIGHLIGHTS

Clan drinks reception with Participant Clans and Clan Chiefs

Clan Scottish Heritage Quiz Competition
Tales of Our Heritage by Guest Speakers
San Antonio  Highland Games including *Clan Battle with Clan MacGregor, Clan Scott and Clan MacFarlane on the games field.

*Hand to hand combat, tug-o-war, wheat sheaf hurling.

Clan Dinner and Reception at Pedrotti’s NORTH WIND Ranch

Clan MacFarlane Worldwide, Inc. is proud to announce its 2020 trip to Scotland, beginning June 30, 2020. The Annual Members Meeting will take place July 1.  Non members can join the trip so If you are not registered, please do so. The information packet is attached with itinerary, hotels, pricing. You can also email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and the info and registration forms will be e-mailed to you. Hope to see you there!

MR. H.F. MCCLINTOCK!   PLEASE DON’T BURST MY BUBBLE!

What is a Highland Game?  I am often asked this question.  I quickly say:  “You know, men in kilts throwing heavy objects.”  That usually answers the question.  EVERYBODY knows what a kilt is.

I’ve seen the movie, Braveheart.  I know about the TV series, Outlander.  So I have that same vision in my mind of men in kilts.  My husband owns 3 kilts that were made specifically for him.  Both my children, as well as my son-in-law (a McCoy), own kilts.

I thought I would do a short blog about the great kilt.  I started with Wiki, but I usually like to head to the references to make sure some 6-year-old is not making additions to the wiki.  In the discussion about the great kilt, I was taken to the Scottish Tartan Museum. http://scottishtartansmuseum.org  But the article about the History of the Kilt was not as much fun as I thought it would be.  So of course, I need to share!

Pictured Above:  The MacFarlanes Company (note the variety in kilts)
http://www.macfarlanescompany.org/Where/NTS/Pages/3.html

First, it appears that the Irish claim the kilt as their own.  They also claim whisky, tartan and anything else you would imagine to be of Scottish origin.  Well, I’m ok with that.  I have some Irish Bailey's in my family tree.

But you quickly start to learn that the origin of the kilt is not really blended into the “made for TV” version of the history of everything Scottish.  That’s a bit of a blow, isn’t it?  Per Matthew Newsome, in his 2003 article:  

(https://www.scottishtartansmuseum.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=170857&module_id=284053).  The kilt is not really a medieval garment.

First:  The issue of the Irish.

Nope.  What is referenced to be the introduction of the kilt in Ireland,  is interpreted to be the leine (that white/off-white underdress).  Short or long, it is not a kilt.  (So sayeth the author.)

Second:  The issue of Pre-Medieval Kilt in Scotland

Nope.  Prior to the 16^th century, what might have been deemed a kilt, was actually, again, the leine, or tunic.

BUT… starting in the 16^th century you hear mention of the feilidh-mòr or great wrap, and the abreacan-feile or tartan wrap/belted plaid.  A plaid is defined by the author as a “heavy woolen fabric worn over the body like a mantle or a shawl.”  And no… "plaid" is an Americanized word synonymous with tartan.  The belted plaid is a very long plaid gathered and belted at the waist.  The modern reenactors call it the “Great kilt.”  Well, that’s what I’ve always called it too.

Not until 1578 is there a true reference to the belted plaid from Bishop Lesley, of Rome.  “Their clothing was made for use (being chiefly suited for war) and not for ornament.  All, both nobles and common people, wore   mantles of one sort (except that the nobles preferred those of several colours).  These were long and flowing, but capable of being   neatly gathered up at pleasure into folds.”

George Buchanan writes in 1581:  “Their ancestors wore plaids of many colours, and numbers still retain this custom but the majority now in their dress prefer a dark brown, imitating nearly the leaves of the heather, that when lying upon the heath in the day, they may not be discovered by the appearance of their clothes; in these wrapped rather than covered, they brave the severest storms in the open air, and sometimes lay themselves down to sleep even in the midst of snow.”

But, the author tells us that the first real definitive description comes out of Ireland.  (Here we go again…). Fortunately,  Life of Red Hugh O’Donnell written by Lughaidh O’Clery, discusses a group of hired mercenaries from Scottish Hebrides who were employed by O’Donnell in 1594.  Aha!  So it IS Scottish!

The issue of “The Whole Nine Yards.”

I’ve heard that saying too.  “The whole nine yards.”  I had a merchant at one of the Games we attend tell me that this is in reference to the kilt.  When my son-in-law was measured for a kilt, the merchant said that because his is such a big guy, (Dude played football and can lift an entire couch by himself) he would take the whole nine yards.  And then he launched into his historical rendition of the saying.  Actually, this is what those of us in the historical/archival business call “Shanghai History.”  For it is a fact that has now been morphed into something it really isn’t. The fact has been shanghaied for the purpose of a wonderful story.  You know… “It took the whole 9 yards.”

So, how many yards?  Length at 4 or 5 yards.  Plaids had to be about 9 yards, but often 10 to 16 yards in length.  The width of the cloth was only 25” wide.  That would require more length to the cloth to meet the goal.  And the author tells us that often two strips of 25” cloth (the actual width – much smaller in width than today’s cloth) would be sewn together in order to cover the subject.  9 yards of fabric would actually make 4 or 5 yards in total.

The issue of How to wear the kilt

Well, as I usually say, we don’t care what you wear, just show up!  It appears there are no real records to prove how the kilt was worn.  There are pictures, but usually the young man grew up learning how to wear the kilt, just like his father learned, and his grandfather did.  Like tying your shoes.  There are actually a couple of different ways to tie your shoes, but how do YOU tie your shoes?

But if You Really Need an Instruction Here you Go (Straight from the Author)

“Begin by laying your material out on the ground.  To start, you may find it easier to lay it all out neatly, but once you get used to doing this, you will not need as much room-you will only need to spread out the section you are currently pleating.  Gather the center part of the plaid into folds or pleats.  This does not need to be neat, precise pleating as in a modern tailored kilt.  Think of it more as being roughly gathered and you will have more authentic looking kilt.  The end goal is to reduce the 4 or 5 yards of material to a length about 1.5 times your waist measurement.  You should aim to have a section of gathers or folds approximately the length of half your waist size in the center, with unfolded sections of equal length on either end.  Since these folds are not sewn in, they can always be readjusted later.  Precision is not something needed when folding your plaid."

"Lie down on your plaid.   I will frequently have people tell me at this point that it just seems silly to suggest that the Highlanders would have lain down to get dressed.  But keep in mind that these plaids were also used as sleeping blankets and the wearer would have more than likely been laying in his plaid already.  You will need to lay down on your plaid, body parallel to the pleats, so that the lower edge hangs about your knees.  Whether it is above, below, or on your knees is personal choice.  There does not appear to have been a standard length as this woodcut of Scottish soldiers from 1641 clearly shows.”

“Wrap the two unpleated ends around you.  It is suggested that you overlap them left over right.  There is no historical basis for this but it is the way modern kilts have always overlapped.  You will need to take a sturdy leather belt and run it around your waist at this point and fasten it well.  If you have anything hanging from your belt such as a dirk (knife) or sporran (pouch), make sure it is on your belt before you do this.  Every description I have read of how to put on the belted plaid starts off with having the wearer lay out his belt first upon the ground and then pleating his material out on top of the belt.  I do not know why people suggest this.  It is more difficult this way and is pure foolishness.Once you have the belt fastened, stand up.  You are now wearing the belted plaid.  You will notice a large amount of material overlapping your belt and hanging down around your legs.  This material can be arranged around your upper body in any number of ways, depending on the climate and activity level of the wearer.  The illustration above shows some good examples.  It is suggested that the front two corners be pulled around behind your back and tucked in to the belt at the base of the spine.  This will create pockets and allow easy access to your sporran.  The remainder behind you can be pulled up over your head or shoulders in the cold or rain, or left trailing behind in heat.  It can be pulled up and tucked into your belt, forming a large bag for carrying.  Most often part of it is drawn from the back onto the left shoulder and part drawn up under the left arm across the front and pinned together.  This will create a large bag under the left arm, and is quite striking in appearance.   The functions of this garment are many and varied!  But remember when wearing it that the primary concerns are that you are comfortable and covered.  Other than that, feel free to experiment with different ways of arranging it and find one that works well with you.”

Or... You can watch this YouTube video!  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Rd1EcKmbYs

So, no; my bubble is not burst.  But at least now I know that the kilt is not as old as I thought it was.  As for the actual tartan…. The earliest tartan, the Falkirk Tartan, is estimated to be from 325 AD.

by Mary Helen Haines 

Hope everyone has had a lovely summer. I know many of you are preparing for the 2020 trip to Scotland/Ireland. The experiences I had on the 2009 and the 2014 trips were unforgettable. Scotland and Ireland are both magical places, and the chance to share those with fellow Macfarlanes is very special. Getting a chance to visit Inveruglas and Eilean-a-Vhow, as well as Gartartan are not to be missed.

Congratulations to Joe Osborn, my 7^th cousin, on the completion and publication of his book The McFarlands: Eight Generations of the family from Robert McFarlan to John Barton McFarland.  It is a beautiful book, filled with maps, illustrations, primary source documents, letters, and photographs. Thank you for the copy.

Last quarter we added a new Sproul member to CMW, which prompted more research to help connect this line to known lines. That led me to look at the Sprouls in our MacFarlane DNA project, which then led me to the Sproul DNA project and its administrator Joe Sprowl. 

Joe has been a member of CMW since 2014, but had not submitted his pedigree, so we had no contact up to this point. Since then, I have been asked by Joe to join the Sproul DNA project so we can collaborate and look into the Scottish background of Sproul descendants. We encourage all Sprouls (any spelling) to test their DNA and be a part of both the Sproul project and the MacFarlane project. Many Sprouls (again, all spellings) in the southern part of the U.S. descend from Doctor Godfrey Spruill, who was born in Scotland about  1650, came to America about 1784, and died in 1719 on his patented land in Chowan District, North Carolina.

To provide background on the history of the Sproul Sept, Joe has kindly agreed to introduce this Sept to those of us who may not be familiar with the Sprouls.

***

Thank you for the gracious invitation as a guest writer on the topic of the family of Sproul, sept of Clan MacFarlane, at the invitation of Mary Helen Haines and Loch Sloy! I would like to take this opportunity to focus the article on the history of this lesser known family and its connection to Clan MacFarlane. And if invited to, I would like to follow up in time, on different aspects of our relationship with Clan MacFarlane since ancient times. But for now, I feel it is more important first to give a preliminary overview of our Family.

The Sproul family of Norman origins and Germanic ancestry has a long and complex history in Scotland dating back to the latter period of the 13^th century. The earliest known Sproul, or “Spreull” was Walter Spreull  (c.1285) of Coldoun (or Cowden), Neilston, Renfrewshire. Walter held the title Seneschal to Malcolm, 5^th Earl of Lennox, and this relationship with the Lennox earls would continue with future generations of Spreulls. It is from this Walter that many, if not all Sprouls, today claim descent.

The Sproul connection with Clan MacFarlane is not as widely understood. What is known however is that Walter as seneschal would have been deeply involved in the affairs of the House of Lennox and Clan MacFarlane. A deep and interwoven connection between Lennox, MacFarlane and Spreull is evident as they share similarities in their arms. But their fidelity during this period of Spreull history most assuredly would have been with the Earls of Lennox.

                                 Lennox                                        MacFarlane                                  Spruell